I was very kindly invited to the FACE London conference, a world renowned Dermatology and Aesthetics conference by the lovely Georgina from Oglivy. I had one of the most educational experiences, and want to share some of the top dermatology tips I learnt from world leading doctors and practitioners. There were some recommendations that are familiar findings from this blog, which were fortified by top practitioners daily use recommendations (e.g. vitamin C and other antioxidants) and some additional amazing breakthroughs that I learnt about for progressive skincare. I was also amazed at how many naturally occurring products are routinely and universally used in Dermatology procedures, such as the use of Hyaluronic acid, Glycolic acid (which can be derived from sugar cane and some fruits), Vitamin C, and antioxidant fruit extracts in skincare.
I really hope you enjoy this post, I have tried to keep it not too science heavy- but I hope this touches on some key facts and top tips.
1. HYALURONIC ACID
Hyaluronic acid, (HA) is a naturally ubiquitous molecule in the body, key to keeping skin young. With HA decreasing rapidly as we age, the loss of HA is a key contributor in the decrease of skin volume, plumpness and hydration and consequently exhibits the hallmarks of skin ageing. This age related change could be due in part to oxygen-derived free radical associated damage, and we simply accrue more damage as we age. The molecular and biophysical properties of HA make it a vital beauty molecule: HA is an intrinsically hydrophilic "water loving" molecule and draws water in from its surroundings and can form a cross-linked gel like substance- key to retaining moisture (I actually felt the gel and it is exactly that, with different densities affecting how gel like and smooth it is!)
I definitely believe in integrating hyaluronic acid into a beauty routine due to the fact it is a naturally occurring molecule in the body which means it appears to be readily assimilated, and thus not a foreign molecule or antigen in the body. The NASHA (non animal stabilised Hyaluronic acid) has a reported global sensitivity of 0.8% which could imply it is very well tolerated. HA can be made and derived using non animal methods and can even greatly improve scarring, which has indubitable medical benefits for long term skin conditions such as acne. An important study has shown HA to increase collagen production via a fibroblast initiation pathway due to the way in which fibroblasts produce Type I collagen in the dermis, (which in turn underlies the epidermis and therefore provides the structural support for the skin.) HA may therefore be useful therapeutically for a plethora of damaged skin aetiologies.
Restylane skinboosters launched a NASHA (non animal stabilised hyaluronic acid which means there are no animal products, chemical additives, and it is simply HA cross-linked in a way to preserve its strength and bioavailability.) The HA in this treatment produced some really beautiful effects utilising very visual, comparable twin studies. The study saw sets of twins test the product, to see any visible differences. This was their proof in real life campaign, to show the fantastic results on real people. The idea from the doctor piloting the study was that he wanted the twin who had the HA treatment to look more hydrated, and like they had, perhaps come back from a holiday! This was exactly what they achieved- a subtle dewy, hydrated radiance was definitely the after effect. This really emphasised the importance of the fantastic Hyaluronic acid molecule not only for maintaining skin fullness and facial volume, but as an inherently important molecule for maintaining hydration and I will definitely be integrating HA as an ingredient into my every day skincare.
2. VITAMIN C
A recurring recommendation was for the use of the powerful Vitamin C, or L-Ascorbic acid based skincare, and topical application. This is due to the intrinsic properties of vitamin C as a protector of collagen as well as initiating collagen synthesis. Linking to sun damage too, vitamin C has been shown to be protective against UVA radiation and especially significant in combination with vitamin E. Vitamin C is also inherently important in maintaining vital barrier lipids in the skin, and has been shown to increase vital ceramides following application.
I try to maintain a diet rich in vitamin C, and will definitely be integrating a low percentage vitamin C serum into my routine as an anti ageing step, as so many dermatologists recommended this. (n.b sun and skin sensitivity of course is to be considered so do consult your doctor if possible)
3. SUN DAMAGE
It was remarkable seeing the before and after pictures in some of the lectures I attended. The prevalent conditions that seemed to seek Dermatologist's consult (at least in slightly older people) was sun damaged skin where there was hyperpigmentation and premature ageing. In some cases this required quite a lot of treatment, and the recurring recommendation was to wear a high SPF (50) and avoid repeated sun exposure. This really demonstrated the effect of the sun on the skin, and protecting your skin really does seem to be the best anti-ageing action you can do for your skin.
4. ANTIOXIDANTS
Another universal recommendation was to integrate antioxidant rich products into your skincare routine, shown pertinently to be photo protective with the clear synergy between vitamin C and E. Other extracts such as Ubiquinone (Co- Enzyme Q 10) were also recommended across the board at the conference.
I love exploring skincare with organic botanical antioxidant extracts reflected with this study on Green tea extract. ORAC tables are also fantastic resources to use to show the ability of the key compounds such as anthocyanin in certain fruits and vegetables to essentially mop up damaging free radicals. As free radicals cause extensive cellular and DNA damage, I love the idea of integrating antioxidants topically for the skin as well as through my diet.
Thank you so much for reading, I would love to know, what are your best skincare secrets ?
{n.b For those interested, the amazing scientific sculptural vases I use in these posts are made by Chris Macdonald, sculptor, Brighton}
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